Deviled eggs

Those humble eggs are neutral and accommodate a range of flavors — smoked, pickled, herbaceous and, of course, spicy. A good deviled egg is more than the sum of its parts.

Deviled eggs — the darlings of church suppers and potlucks — may sound retro, but when served at a fancy cocktail soiree, those eggs disappear long before the canapés. You’ll be hard-pressed to see a leftover deviled egg.

The culinary term “deviled” was first used in the 18th century to refer to spicy foods. But the details of what to fill the eggs with is up to the devil who makes them. Those humble eggs are neutral and accommodate a range of flavors — smoked, pickled, herbaceous and, of course, spicy. A good deviled egg is more than the sum of its parts.


Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at .

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